Cuisine in the Clouds

Kama tries to take gastronomic pleasure to a new level. Do they succeed?

From the top of the Riviera House, despite the persistent fog maintaining an eerie yet consoling blanket upon the city, a magnificent view is had. Kyiv’s newest pan-Asian gastro-hub, Kama, looks to offer “aesthetic enjoyment” to its guests. Myself, along with the rest of The Ukrainian Connoisseurs Club (TUCC), are going to find out just how well the venue lives up to its Sanskrit name.

MUAH

The initial impression is one of awe. Exiting the lift, you are immediately met with a view that continues to get exponentially better – both inside and out. TUCC members are decked out in their finest, and with a glass of prosecco to start, it’s not a bad way to reconnect with friends new and old. 

Called to the table, the first course is served in grand style – langoustine popcorn with tomato shiso sauce. I could eat this all day – nice, light, with a hint of spice. Delicately fried with a sprig of rosemary to add an unmistakable aromatic twist, the sweetness of the Gewurztraminer it is paired with makes for a wonderful taste combination. 

Next up – bruschetta. One of beef ribs with cucumbers and another of baked bell pepper, avocado, mushrooms, and verde sauce. The former has been cooking a la sous-vide for 15 hours making the meat so tender you could feed it to a baby. The beautiful BBQ-style sauce reminds me of a 5-star pulled pork recipe, and coupled with the pickle and red jalapeno – all I can say is muah! The vegetable option, while good, doesn’t compare. Though, if you were to ask the other women at my table you’d get a different answer. The wine on the other hand I cannot fault. Bolgheri Viticcio, with notes of forest fungi, is a complex potion. Though taste structure may not be for all, my suggestion would be to give it a few minutes – this wine does well with O₂ and gets better the longe it’s left to breathe.

FINISHING NOTES

The third wine, another Italian – Benuara Cusumano, is less full-bodied, making way for what is meant to be star of the evening. The main course is mentally problematic for me – tongue, and not from just anywhere, from little baby lambs. I will always try something once however, and served in a black pepper sauce, I find it is soft like a grilled fois gras, and just as delicate. Breaking off a piece of the fresh coriander, I include a small leaf with each bite and my mind is blown. Once over the initial psychology, I actually enjoy it. The sweet potato that accompanies is more trendy than tasty, however. 

We finish up the epicurean tour with cold coconut mousse with mango and blueberry. This is not mousse in the traditional sense. It is however very creamy and very good, with real pieces of fruit placed delicately atop the velvety mixture. The wine pairing I’m not sure about – it’s an Asti Spumante la Selvatica la Caudrina, which makes for a lot of sweet in one sitting. It seems to go down well with the local women however, many of whom I know have more than one sweet tooth, so they are happy.

Edible Inventory

• Gewurztraminer medaille hunawihr

• Langoustine popcorn with tomato shiso sauce

• Bolgheri Viticcio

• Beef ribs bruschetta with cucumbers and vegetable bruschetta with baked bell pepper, avocado, mushrooms, and verde sauce

• Benuara Cusumano

• Lamb tongues with black pepper and baked sweet potato

• Asti Spumante la Selvatica la Caudrina

• Cold coconut mousse with mango and blueberry

Make sure you try:

Langostino tartar with black truffle and guacamole 410 UAH
Duck filet with apricot and radish teriyaki 410 UAH
Super Matcha Cake 340 UAH 

Throughout the evening, I am awed by the architecture of the venue, with a bar that must be at least three storeys high. The grandeur of the place is in keeping with the 5-star lifestyle so many here in Kyiv enjoy. Is to everyone’s tastes? Maybe not. What is interesting however is that chef Dmytriy Poltavets, who at a mere 23-years old, is creating cuisine at a level not typically seen at his age, which makes a visit, at least once, a must.