Two Way Trip

14 February 2019

Born as Vernissage in Andriivskiy Descent, reborn as Frenchie nestling near the hectic Lvivska Square, this restaurant is now opening another, no less exciting, chapter in its life. Under the new name – Kyiv Paris, the space reboots as a revamped ‘double-edged’ concept delivering an extravagant gastronomic experience.

To See Paris and…Eat

One thing remains intact: the flavour of France is definitely in the air. It embraces as soon as we step through the door. The place reminds us of cosy bistros, brasseries, and cafés picturesquely scattered in the vicinity of Montmartre, Notre Dame, and the Eiffel Tower.

An artistic flair is apparent everywhere. Black-and-white photos of world-known French artists – Audrey Tautou, Belmondo, Louis de Finesse, and more look down upon us from the ceiling. Paintings by professional and amateur artists generously adorn the walls, while adding bright colours with a warm human touch to the overall atmosphere. We drink it in as we sip red Bordeaux Medoc, with a pleasant astringent sensation typical of vineyards from this iconic region.

Whatever You Like

Ukrainians have always been keen on refined French recipes. In their turn, the French are prone to explore Ukrainian cuisine. Some time ago, the spot’s owners Yulia and Louis Chambaudie noticed this tendency and decided to cater to all palates.

These aspirations shape an eyeful half-Ukrainian and half-French menu that makes us salivate. Strikingly, it does not separate two opposite cuisines yet completes each other. They borrow elements from each other and take on a contemporary twist. The whole idea functions as a return ticket – Kyiv-Paris, Paris-Kyiv. We embark on a flight to chew equally on both sides.

When in Paris, we miss Kyiv. Back in Kyiv, we dream about Paris. A familiar situation? To reconcile wants with reality, book a table at a one-of-a-kind downtown place treating you to the very best both cities can offer

Paris: a gulp of onion soup is what we need to start. Hot, thick, nourishing broth is served in a classic way – in a homemade bread bowl. Not an onion person, I find – to my great surprise – that the soup has a tender piquant taste with no harsh aftertaste at all. It is a great option for a cold winter night.

Kyiv: Thinly sliced veal tongue carpaccio arrives next. This soft-textured cold appetiser is ideally paired with delicate gribiche sauce to offer a gentle taste, elegantly enhanced with finely cut spring onions.

Paris: The party gains momentum as we indulge in the first hot meal that immediately wins our hearts. It is what Belle France is famous for and possibly most proud of. Roasted foie gras served with caramelised apples and cranberries is a sumptuous treat for the tastebuds. This rich tender succulent delicacy melts in our mouths. Perfectly fatty, it is perfectly balanced with sweet and sour notes of fruit garnish and raspberry sauce. A glass of ruby-coloured ordinary yet noble wine crowns the range of gorgeous tastes.

Soft Landing

Kyiv: For the second main course, we order roasted Kyiv-styled pikeperch. Normally, this fish is a bit dry, and takes certain effort to make it juicy. The restaurant works miracles – we savour a chunk of supple sappy white fish covered with a crispy crust and smartly flavoured with a creamy cheese sauce.

The place applies the same ‘two-way’ approach to their breakfasts with croissants and omelettes, on the one hand, and syrnyky and fried eggs with salo, on the other. Lunches are also available as well as is delivery service.

Regarding drinks, the menu logically focuses on dry wines delivered from French domains. Not hyped up in Ukraine, it is a nice collection of good-quality and meticulously selected options.

Edible Inventory

Onion soup 158 UAH

Veal tongue carpaccio 175 UAH

Foie gras escalope with apples and raspberry sauce 597 UAH

Kyiv-styled pikeperch 297 UAH

Puy Vallon, Medoc, Grand Vin De Bordeaux 129 UAH (glass)

TOTAL 1 356 UAH