Top of the Building Bottom of the Heart

15 February 2018

Protected by EU legislation, feta is Greece’s most famous cheese; while papa means ‘dad’ and epitomises a family foundation. Papa plus feta equals an unmatched venue offering good food and a cordial welcome all year round.
PapaFeta opened its doors a year-and-a-half ago, in the Solomyanskyi district. It is nestled on the 11th (top) floor of Red Star – a newly constructed business centre. Though not technically downtown, the location has its unique advantages. It boasts four halls accommodating from 20 to 250 guests and two terraces with a marvellous panoramic city view. At the moment, it is too cold and windy to appreciate all the benefits this rooftop restaurant as to offer. However, as soon as the weather is milder, the terraces are sure to be packed with those enjoying a gorgeous sunset with a glass of wine.

Modern Style with Greek Attitude
Once I entered the main hall, I feel like I am on summer vacation. The overwhelming predominance of white gives a sense of lightness and space with maximum comfort. All this is brightened up with specks of blue, turquoise, and green, evoking associations of a fresh sea coast. In this moment, I can even smell the gentle sea breeze and hear the sounds of crashing waves…
Tables, chairs, and benches are made of wood with a lovely old weathered look, which adds a rustic charm to the interior. Baskets of every shape and size as well as potted plants, including mandarin trees, adorn the place, which resembles a smart Mediterranean tavern with a modern touch.
Thessaloniki-born Yiannis Kofopoulos, PapaFeta’s chef, was specially invited from Greece to supervise the restaurant’s menu. He radiates positive energy and enthusiasm as he guides us through his menu. Some dishes are prepared strictly according to traditional Greek recipes, he explains, others are adapted for Ukrainian palettes and given a contemporary twist. “They are absolutely unique; you won’t find anything like them in any other place,” says Kofopoulos.

Let the Feast Begin
The server brings us Kalamata, well-known large brown Greek olives grown in the southern Peloponnese. They are salty to a reasonable extent, and meaty with a smooth texture.
Then we ‘officially’ start with Kakavia soup. Its name is derived from kakavі, the pot in which are traditionally cooked by ancient Ionian fishermen, and it is the precursor to the modern French classic Bouillabaisse – a clear fish broth with mussels, shrimp, and a chunk of nice soft trout. It is a good option for warming up and getting ready for more delicacies to come.

We choose Mochos, a sumptuous salad, which becomes my favourite ‘at first chew’. Its ingredients are beautifully arranged on the plate and include strong-flavoured rucola, neutral mangold leaves, thin slices of seared veal, juicy mango, and delicate cheese balls covered with almonds. Its sweet-sour-bitter taste is well balanced and as rich as is its description.
Whenever I travel to Greece, I always try the grilled fish, which may be cliché, however also delicious. Here, at PapaFeta we follow suit and treat ourselves to grilled dorado and trout. The presentation is fabulous – the succulent fish with a mouth-watering smoky flavour are served on wooden boards and classically garnished with a wedge of lemon and baked vegetables. Everything is cooked just the way you like it. White Moschofilero wine, light and fruity, goes well with all the dishes.
Almost full, we still can’t resist trying Karidopita, a popular Greek walnut and chocolate cake soaked in syrup and scented in aroma. The place offers a selection of splendid teas to wash down a nourishing dinner.

P.S. The Show Must Go On
The chef tells us that once a month, during the cold season, PapaFeta throws parties featuring live music, DJs, dancing, and various shows. It would seem Greece is much closer than we think.

Edible Inventory
Kalamata olives 39 UAH
Kakavia fish 89 UAH
Mochos 115 UAH
Grilled Dorado 185 UAH
Grilled Trout 155 UAH
Karidopita 67 UAH
Black tea, karkade, ginger, clove, honey, cinnamon 65 UAH
TOTAL 715 UAH